1 An exciting journey across the waves and up the mountain passes
Unlike pagodas that can be reached by car right at the entrance, the route to Loi Am Thuong Pagoda felt like a true adventure to me. From central Ha Long, I traveled to Yen Lap Lake. Here, I had to hire a boat (around VND 50,000–70,000 per person) to reach the pagoda.
Loi Am Thuong Pagoda is sacred and time-honored. Illustrative photo: Vinpearl
Sitting in a small boat and gliding across the emerald waters of the lake, which is likened to a "miniature Ha Long Bay," was truly refreshing. After getting off the boat, I began the challenge of walking more than 850 m across 5 steep hills and 2 gently sloping hills along a path called "Chúa Ngự." Making up for the heavy breathing were the pine forests whispering on both sides of the road and the lush green pineapple valleys, no less beautiful than those in Da Lat. This was truly an unforgettable experience after my journey through Quang Ninh.
To reach the pagoda, you will need to take a boat across Yen Lap Lake. Illustrative photo: Vov
2 A 500-year historical legacy and the legend of the "Voice of Buddha"
Before embarking on this exploration, I was very curious and decided to learn about the name Loi Am Thuong Pagoda. According to what I found, this pagoda has an extremely long history, having been established during the reign of King Le Thanh Tong (the 15th century).
The pagoda gate lies amid the mountains and forests, exceptionally secluded and steeped in age. Illustrative photo: Vov
Legend has it that, long ago, these mountains were overrun with demons that harassed innocent villagers. An orphaned young man traveled far and wide to seek Buddha and ask for secret teachings to defeat the demons. After driving back the forces of evil, the villagers built a pagoda to express their gratitude to Buddha and named it Loi Am. The name means the "Voice of Buddha," echoing forth to protect the peace. Upon reading this, I suddenly felt more appreciative of every step I was taking, because every brick and tree here carries the spirit of a sacred land through many centuries.
Poet Phan Thuc Truc once wrote these highly poetic verses about Loi Am Thuong Pagoda:
"Loi Am on Mount Thứu has a pagoda here
A thousand miles by cloud-carriage to this place
The trees are deep green, a thousand mountains rise
The tide roars and surges, thunder rumbles and shakes."
Yen Lap Lake is vast and peaceful; taking a boat across the lake is an unforgettable experience. Illustrative photo: Vov
3 A secluded beauty in a fairyland
When I reached the pagoda gate, all my fatigue seemed to disappear. Loi Am Thuong Pagoda is hidden in a veil of white clouds, where the figures of visitors fade from view, at an elevation of more than 500 m.
- Simple architecture: The pagoda is not very large but is extremely imposing. The roof sections and walkways are intricately carved with dragons and phoenixes. Although tinged by time, they still retain the grandeur of a national heritage site.
The pagoda has been restored many times but has retained its traditional architecture. Illustrative photo: Vov
- Cau Cave (Cau Pavilion): Continuing about 50 m from Ban Mau, I encountered a huge natural rock that looked exactly like a monitor lizard. This was once a place of meditation for monks in the past. From here, looking down, the entire Yen Lap Lake came into view, hazy like an ink-wash painting.
From the pagoda, you can take in the majestic natural beauty at a glance. Illustrative photo: Vov
4 Tips for making offerings and things to note
Based on my firsthand trip, there are a few things you should keep in mind to make your visit to Loi Am Thuong Pagoda complete:
- Offerings: You should offer only vegetarian items (fruit, cakes, and sweets), and absolutely do not bring meat-based food or burn votive paper. Fresh flowers offered to Buddha should be lotus, lilies, or peonies for a suitably solemn atmosphere.
- Timing: If you want to experience the lively festival atmosphere and watch traditional folk games, come on the 27th day of the first lunar month. If you prefer tranquility, lightly sunny winter days are the best time to go cloud hunting.
The curved pagoda roof is characteristic of northern Vietnamese pagoda architecture. Illustrative photo: Vov
- Clothing: Be sure to wear sports shoes with good grip to tackle the challenging route up to Loi Am Thuong Pagoda. After coming down, do not forget to try the specialty grilled chicken at the foot of the mountain—the wonderfully fragrant meat will be the perfect ending to the trip.
The pagoda does not yet have a bell tower, so the bell has been temporarily placed in the pagoda courtyard. Illustrative photo: Vov
To me, Loi Am Thuong Pagoda is a place where "the Azure Dragon on the left and the White Tiger on the right" come together, creating a rare tranquil space. If you are looking to regain your balance, try coming here once to hear the "Voice of Buddha" amid the vast, deep-green forests. The journey will be even more comfortable when you bring an outdoor backpack from MIA.vn. Packing light will make the mountain-climbing journey much more comfortable.
