1 An exciting journey across the waves and up the mountain pass
Unlike pagodas you can drive right up to, getting to Loi Am Thuong Pagoda is a true adventure. From downtown Ha Long, I made my way to Yen Lap Lake. There, I had to hire a boat (approximately 50,000 - 70,000 VND per person) to reach the pagoda.
Loi Am Thuong Pagoda is sacred and steeped in history. Illustrative photo: Vinpearl
Sitting in a small boat and gliding across the emerald lake—likened to a "miniature Ha Long Bay"—was truly refreshing. After getting off the boat, I took on the challenge of hiking more than 850 m over five steep hills and two gentler slopes along a path called "Chua Ngu" (The King’s Path). The reward for those exerted breaths was the sight of pine forests whispering in the breeze on either side of the path, along with lush green pineapple valleys every bit as beautiful as Da Lat. This was truly an unforgettable experience during my trip to Quang Ninh.
You’ll need to take a boat across Yen Lap Lake to reach the pagoda. Illustrative photo: Vov
2 A 500-year history and the legend of the "Voice of the Buddha"
Before setting out on this trip, I was curious about the name Loi Am Thuong Pagoda and decided to learn more about it. From what I discovered, this pagoda has a remarkably long history, dating back to the reign of King Le Thanh Tong (the 15th century).
The pagoda gate stands among the mountains and forests, creating a remarkably tranquil, ancient atmosphere. Illustrative photo: Vov
According to legend, these mountains were once overrun by evil spirits that tormented the local people. An orphaned young man went far and wide in search of the Buddha, hoping to learn how to defeat them. After driving away the forces of evil, the villagers built a pagoda to honor the Buddha and named it Loi Am. The name means "Voice of the Buddha," echoing through the mountains to safeguard peace. Reading this, I suddenly felt an even deeper appreciation for every step I took, because every brick and tree here carries the spirit of a sacred land with a history spanning many centuries.
The poet Phan Thuc Truc once wrote these wonderfully evocative lines about Loi Am Thuong Pagoda:
"On Mount Thu, Loi Am Pagoda stands
A thousand miles by cloud-carriage to this place
Trees lush green, a thousand mountains rise
The tide surges, thunder shakes the skies."
Yen Lap Lake is vast and peaceful; taking a boat across it is an unforgettable experience. Illustrative photo: Vov
3 A secluded beauty in a heavenly landscape
As I reached the pagoda gate, all my fatigue seemed to disappear. Loi Am Thuong Pagoda lies hidden in a veil of white mist, at an altitude of more than 500 m.
- Simple architecture: The pagoda is not very large, but it is exceptionally solemn. The roofs and walkways are intricately carved with dragons and phoenixes. Though weathered by time, they still convey the grandeur of a national historic site.
The pagoda has been renovated many times but has retained its traditional architecture. Illustrative photo: Vov
- Hang Cau (Lau Cau): Continuing about 50 m from the Mau Shrine, I came across a huge natural rock that looked just like a monitor lizard. This was once a place where monks came to meditate. From here, Yen Lap Lake stretches out below, its entire expanse within view, hazy like an ink-wash painting.
From the pagoda, you can take in the breathtaking natural scenery at a glance. Illustrative photo: Vov
4 Tips for making offerings and other things to keep in mind
Based on my own trip, here are a few things to keep in mind for a memorable visit to Loi Am Thuong Pagoda:
- Offerings: You should make only vegetarian offerings (fruit, cakes, and sweets); absolutely do not bring meat or burn votive paper. For a respectful offering to the Buddha, choose fresh lotus, gladiolus, or peonies.
- When to visit: To experience the lively festival atmosphere and watch traditional folk games, come on the 27th day of the first lunar month. If you prefer tranquility, mild, sunny days in winter are the best time to go cloud hunting.
The pagoda’s gently curving roof is characteristic of temple architecture in northern Vietnam. Illustrative photo: Vov
- What to wear: Be sure to wear sports shoes with good grip to tackle the challenging route up to Loi Am Thuong Pagoda. After coming back down, don’t forget to try the local specialty of grilled chicken at the foot of the mountain. Its mouthwatering aroma and flavor make for the perfect end to the trip.
The pagoda does not yet have a bell tower, so the bell is temporarily placed in the courtyard. Illustrative photo: Vov
To me, Loi Am Thuong Pagoda is where the Azure Dragon of the East and the White Tiger of the West come together, creating an exceptionally tranquil space. If you’re looking to find your balance again, try visiting once to hear the "Voice of the Buddha" amid the vast green wilderness. The trip will feel even easier if you bring a MIA.vn hiking backpack. Packing light will make the mountain hike much more comfortable.
