Travel to Ba Che, Quang Ninh: An adventure through mangrove forests, an ancient river, and heritage

1 An introduction to the mountainous land of Ba Che, Quang Ninh

Located about 95km north of Ha Long City along National Highway 18A, Ba Che is a pristine and captivating mountainous district in Quang Ninh Province. Covering a vast area, it is surrounded by sprawling primeval forests and a dense network of streams, while the legendary Ba Che River flows for more than 80km toward the sea.

Beyond its picturesque mountains and waterways, this land is also home to the vibrant cultural traditions of nine ethnic groups, including the Dao, Tay, San Chi, Cao Lan, and Kinh. Following a merger and expansion of its administrative boundaries, Ba Che Commune is gradually unlocking its potential for community-based ecotourism and spiritual tourism. From golden camellia tea farms glistening in the early-morning mist and majestic waterfalls deep in the forest to long-standing historical sites, Ba Che has become a wonderful restorative destination in Quang Ninh for nature lovers.

2 A spiritual and cultural journey along the Ba Che River

My journey to explore Ba Che began along the spiritual tourism route beside the gentle Ba Che River. This was once a vital trading route, bustling with boats and activity along its banks.

2.1 Pay your respects at the National Heritage Site cluster of Ong Temple and Ba Temple

Located just about 300m from National Highway 18A, Ong Temple and Ba Temple face each other across the two banks of the Ba Che River.

• Ong Temple: Dedicated to General Le Ba Duc (Le Tu Duc), a loyal supporter of the Tran dynasty. He played a major role in assisting two Tran kings and Tran Quoc Tuan, the supreme commander, when they sought refuge by the Ba Che River in early 1285. The spacious temple features traditional architecture with a Dinh-shaped floor plan, and solemn parallel couplets and plaques made of ironwood.

• Ba Temple: Located on Mount Cai Tan across the river, the temple is dedicated to Mau Thuong Ngan (Mau La Binh), the goddess of the forests, who taught mountain communities how to build terraced fields, grow upland rice, and gather medicinal plants. Pilgrims visiting Ba Temple can enjoy the memorable experience of crossing the river by boat.

2.2 Explore Co Ngua River Wharf and the 200-year-old Old Porcelain Kiln

After paying my respects at Ong Temple, I boarded a boat to explore the Ba Che River. The tranquil river flows between banks lined with lush mangrove and nipa palm forests, reflected in the water below.

• Co Ngua River section: This was the site of a fierce naval battle in 1951, when Ba Che's armed forces and people sank 04 French supply ships carrying provisions.

• Old Porcelain Kiln (Lang Moi Village, Nam Son Commune): A few hundred meters' walk from the boat landing, this historic kiln dates back to the late 19th century. Nearly 60m long, it was built in the form of a dragon kiln with 16 chambers. Seeing fragments of white-bodied, pale green-glazed dishes scattered in the soil gave me a vivid sense of the bustling riverside trading town that once stood here.

3 Explore a varied tourism route: Khe Lanh Waterfall, Da Village, and a golden camellia tea farm

Leaving the riverside, I continued along Provincial Road 330 into the town center and the highland villages to experience a diverse range of attractions.

3.1 Browse the Central Market and enjoy Khe Lanh and Khe Lung waterfalls

Right by the river, Ba Che Central Market is a bustling trading hub for the local ethnic communities. Visit on the 15th or the first day of the lunar month to experience the lively atmosphere of a highland market. You can shop for local specialties such as bamboo shoots, wild honey, ginseng, taro, and the local crab known as ca ra.

A 10–15-minute drive from town takes you to Khe Lanh and Khe Lung waterfalls in Thanh Son Commune. In summer, soaking in the cool water as it ripples over large tiers of rock in a pristine protected forest is wonderfully refreshing. The air here is 2 - 3 degrees C cooler than outside, making it a truly relaxing way to beat the heat.

3.2 Visit the revolutionary base at Da Village Communal House and a golden camellia tea farm

• Da Village Communal House (Thanh Lam Commune): The only communal house in Ba Che, it was the site of a historic rally in 1946 to establish the Hai Chi District Resistance Administrative Committee, the predecessor of Ba Che District. Visit during the festival on the 9th–10th days of the first lunar month to join the Tay community in celebrations praying for a good harvest and welcoming the new rice crop.
• Golden Camellia Tea Farm (Dap Thanh Commune): Set on a 3ha hillside beside the river, the farm grows a rare medicinal plant known as the queen of teas. Sipping golden camellia tea from a thermos, with its gently sweet, refreshing taste and wonderful aroma, amid peaceful mountain scenery was the most unforgettable experience of my trip.

4 Tips for visiting Ba Che

• Best time to visit: Visit Ba Che in early spring (the first to third lunar months) to attend the Ong Temple–Ba Temple Festival (the 1st day of the third lunar month) and the Da Village Communal House Festival. Alternatively, come in the cool autumn to pick golden camellia tea and camp by the river.
• Getting around: The well-paved, spacious roads from National Highway 18A to the town center and communes are easy to navigate by motorbike or car with fewer than 35 seats. However, the roads to the highland villages have many steep, winding bends, so ride carefully.
• Local cuisine: Be sure to try delicious mountain specialties such as crispy fried stream fish, khau nhuc (braised pork), hill chicken, five-color sticky rice, and fragrant corn wine.

My journey through Ba Che gave me a fresh perspective on a different side of Quang Ninh. This province is not only home to spectacular islands and seascapes, but also to a tranquil mountainous region steeped in cultural history and nestled beside an ancient river. The warm hospitality of the Dao, Tay, and San Chi communities, together with the rich flavor of golden camellia tea, is sure to make any visitor want to return. Grab your backpack and come discover all that Ba Che has to offer!