1 Overview of the mountainous land of Ba Che, Quang Ninh
Located about 95 km north of Ha Long City along National Highway 18A, Ba Che is a pristine and enchanting mountainous district in Quang Ninh Province. Boasting a vast area, it is embraced by endless primeval forests, a dense network of streams, and the legendary Ba Che River stretching over 80 km to the sea.
Ba Che, Quang Ninh, with its peaceful scenery featuring rivers, mountains, and vast rice fields. Illustrative photo: Vietnamtourism
Not only endowed with picturesque mountains and waters, this land is also a confluence of vibrant cultural identities from 9 ethnic groups living together, such as the Dao, Tay, San Chi, Cao Lan, and Kinh. Following administrative restructuring and expansion planning, Ba Che is gradually unlocking its potential for community ecotourism and spiritual tourism. From golden camellia tea farms shimmering in the morning mist and magnificent waterfalls deep in the forest to long-standing historical relics, Ba Che has become a wonderful healing travel destination in Quang Ninh for nature lovers.
2 Spiritual travel journey and exploration along the Ba Che River
My journey to explore Ba Che begins with the spiritual route along the gentle Ba Che River. This was once a vital trade artery bustling with river transport and commerce.
2.1 Paying homage at the National Historical Relic cluster of Mieu Ong – Mieu Ba
Located just about 300 meters from National Highway 18A, the Mieu Ong – Mieu Ba relic complex faces each other across the two banks of the Ba Che River.
- Mieu Ong: Dedicated to the Saint supporting the Tran Dynasty – Left General Le Ba Duc (Le Tu Duc). He rendered great service supporting the two Tran Emperors and Supreme Commander Tran Quoc Tuan when they took temporary refuge on the Ba Che River in early 1285. The spacious temple boasts traditional architecture with a "Dinh" (丁) shape layout, featuring dignified horizontal boards and couplets made of ironwood.
The National Relic Mieu Ong dedicated to Left General Le Ba Duc (Le Tu Duc). Illustrative photo: Vov
- Mieu Ba: Located on Mount Cai Tan across the river, dedicated to Mau Thuong Ngan (Goddess La Binh), the Goddess of the Forest who taught mountainous people how to build terraced fields, cultivate upland rice, and harvest medicinal herbs to cure diseases. Pilgrims wishing to visit Mieu Ba will enjoy a fascinating boat ride across the river.
Mieu Ba is situated on Mount Cai Tan, separated from Mieu Ong by a river. Illustrative photo: Alltours
2.2 Sightseeing at Co Ngua river wharf and the 200-year-old Ancient Porcelain Kiln
After offering incense at Mieu Ong, I boarded a boat to cruise along the Ba Che River. The river gently meanders between lush green mangrove forests casting emerald reflections on the water's surface.
- Co Ngua river section: This was the site of a fierce naval battle in 1951, where the army and people of Ba Che sank 04 supply vessels carrying provisions for the French army.
The river meanders through Ba Che District. Illustrative photo: Vietnamhoinhap
- Ancient Porcelain Kiln (Lang Moi Village, Nam Son Commune): Just a few hundred meters' walk from the wharf, this ancient porcelain kiln relic dates back to the late 19th century, measuring nearly 60 meters long and constructed in the 16-chamber dragon kiln style. Witnessing with my own eyes the fragments of white-body, pale celadon-glazed pottery mixed within the soil, I truly felt the vibrancy of a bustling riverside trading center from days gone by.
3 Exploring the comprehensive tour route: Khe Lanh Waterfall, Lang Da, and the Golden Camellia Farm
Leaving the riverside, I continued deeper into the town center and highland villages along Provincial Road 330 to experience a colorful, diverse travel itinerary.
3.1 Exploring Ba Che Central Market and immersing yourself in Khe Lanh and Khe Lung Waterfalls
Located right beside the riverbank, Ba Che Central Market is a bustling trading spot for local ethnic minorities. Visiting here on the 1st or 15th day of the lunar month, you will soak in the energetic atmosphere of a highland fair, freely shopping for regional specialties such as bamboo shoots, wild honey, Molineria capitulata (sam cau), taro, or the specialty mitten crab (ca ra).
A 10 to 15-minute drive from the town will bring you to Khe Lanh Waterfall and Khe Lung Waterfall (Thanh Son Commune). In the summer, soaking in the cool waters trickling over large rock tiers in the middle of primeval protection forests, where temperatures are 2 to 3 degrees Celsius lower than outside, offers a truly refreshing retreat.
Khe Lanh Waterfall with a crystal-clear pool at its base. Illustrative photo: Vietnamtourism
3.2 Visiting Lang Da Communal House Revolutionary Base and the Golden Camellia Farm
- Lang Da Communal House (Thanh Lam Commune): The only communal house in Ba Che and the historic meeting site where the Resistance Administrative Committee of Hai Chi District (the predecessor of Ba Che District) was established in 1946. Visiting during the festival on the 9th – 10th of the first lunar month, you will be immersed in the crop-praying and new rice celebrations of the Tay ethnic people.
- Golden Camellia Farm (Dap Thanh Commune): Perched on a 3-hectare hill by the river, this farm cultivates a precious medicinal herb crowned the "queen of teas." Savoring a freshly brewed cup of golden camellia tea with its subtle sweet, refreshing flavor and enchanting aroma amidst peaceful mountain landscapes was the most unforgettable experience of my trip.
Golden camellia tea is a premium quality tea, highly aromatic and richly flavored. Illustrative photo: Huyenhashop
4 Travel tips for visiting Ba Che
- Best time to visit: You should visit Ba Che in early spring (from the 1st to the 3rd lunar month) to take part in the Mieu Ong - Mieu Ba Festival (1st day of the 3rd lunar month) and the Lang Da Communal House Festival. Alternatively, you can visit during the pleasant autumn season to harvest golden camellia tea and camp along the riverbank.
- Transportation: The wide paved road from National Highway 18A to the town center and communes is very easy to travel for both motorbikes and buses under 35 seats. However, roads leading up to upland villages feature many winding curves and slopes, so maintain a steady grip on the wheel.
- Local cuisine: Do not miss out on hearty mountain delicacies like crispy fried stream fish, khau nhuc (braised pork belly), hill chicken, five-color sticky rice, and fragrant corn wine.
Spring is a fantastic time if you wish to participate in festivals in Ba Che, Quang Ninh. Illustrative photo: Vietnamtourism
The journey exploring Ba Che brought me fresh perspectives on a very distinctive Quang Ninh. Here lies not only magnificent islands and seas, but also a serene mountain region steeped in rich cultural heritage by an ancient river. The warm hospitality of the Dao, Tay, and San Chi ethnic groups along with the exquisite taste of golden camellia tea will surely captivate any traveler. Wishing you an inspiring journey packing your bags to discover every corner of this wonderful land of Ba Che!
